Usual problems on Making Resin !

Remove bubbles during early mixing

The methods has been said a lot:

  • Mix it vertically, do not tilt mixing, do not mix too fast.
  • Use wooden sticks to adsorb small bubbles. After a period of rest, lift the wooden sticks and wipe off the glue hanging on it.
  • Hot water, the height of water should not exceed one fifth of the glue cup.(40 - 50 celsius )

Reasons for large or small bubbles in large molds

Where I mess up several times, I usually make two sizes of cubes, 5cm and 6.5cm. 5cm is easier, 6.5cm has a bit problem. Many people find that there were no bubbles when pouring glue into the mold, but shown when it got dry.

Another problem is that when making large-size glue, it was fine till waking up to see many bubbles hanging on the wall of the mold, some even had a large one at the corner

To understand this problem, we must first get to the causes of the bubbles: AB glue emits heat while solidification, and the rate of it differs from parts to parts, which create big bubbles and even corner bubbles.

Solutions: Large size mould should pour glue partly, 50 g at a time then wait 2 hours till the last layer get solid.(it might lead to split layers effect if using color glue), stabbing with toothpicks to get a better effect,(do not stir) Stirring brings bubble easily, though is a method to create bubbles when needed; Another way is to give entire mold a cold water bath, ensure that the cold water are over the top of the mold. This way can reduce the temperature of solidification so to de-bubbles.

You can also use slow dry glue, it emits less heat, which will reduce the possibility of broken bubbles glue. Of course, there are places where those bubbles are needed, since they create the feeling of snow and raindrops. The best way to eliminate bubbles is to buy a vacuum machine, if you have infinite budget.

The problem of uv solidification

Uv solidification using ultraviolet light to get formed not Simple Rest, but sometimes when resin are mix with dark color essence, it became opaque. Meanwhile if the solution you pour is too sick, Uv can only dry the outside shell and inside remain liquid like, which is commonly known as the soft-boiled(the egg). To solved it you need to pour a very thin layer each time and wait for it to get dry until the next pour.

Some of you may ask: Why there is always a sticky layer no matter how I use UV. Some people say it is the problem of the glue, some people say it is the problem of the light. Generally I will pour a layer of nail oil (transparent), and wait for a BIT. It works quite well.

The crack of the mold

There are generally two kinds of ball molds on the market: The One ball and The half open.

Take 2cm ball molds as an example

Half-open mold:

It is easier to carve details because of the large opening in the front hemisphere. The integrity of the mold is better, and it will not need to polish the glue leaking out of the junction after demold, like the One Ball does.

One ball mold must Roll it first!

Once with half-open mold, I found a thick layer of glue form on the sphere lower part after demold. The reason it this: after the one hemisphere was finished, the bottom of it was already get dry, with uneven force applied, it demold slightly causing a crack between the object and the mold. As the glue flow in this gap, forming the thick layer shell. This is why One ball mold has to roll at first to Squeeze out the air (the glue must be rolled in one direction) Similarly in the production of 5 cm square: if you want to put 5 cm mountain in, you must pour a thin layer of glue on the bottom first, then push it hard to the end. The color will be totally different if there is a crack between the object and mold. ( Use that to check if it is fit perfectly)

The use of pearl powder and magic aurora powder

This came out after several times of failing.

I started to paint the aurora by pouring transparent glue on the black bottom, then mix the glue with pearl light powder or aurora powder, then dip it with a toothpick to draw. The effect was really good until I finished painting, as it gets dried, all the patterns sank to the bottom.

Reason: the glue that added powder has a bigger density than the transparent glue, the glue that added powder will sink to the bottom if the transparent glue has not solidified completely.

There are lots of YouTube tutorials about how to do aurora. The correct approach should be to wait for the transparent glue to get solidified (around 3 hours), then to paint the aurora. The specific waiting time depends on the weather and the type of glue.

How do you make a stuffsuspended in the middleof the object.

There are many practices on Youtube.

To notice, when you poke with a toothpick, be sure you do it close to the edge of the mold to avoid obvious split layer. This is the msot obvious place. Be sure to poke and poke and poke!

In addition, you can also use transparent block support, or use UV to stick a corner of the suspended fish to the mountain part or the edge of the mold, creating a similar suspended effect but actually supported somewhere, this I have not tried but seems capable.

In conclude ...

This page is kind of mix up everything, so fogive my poor structure. One thing I know for sure is that the great work always takes patient, and lot of effort. It is quite hard to keep on but the outcome satisfied me everytime. Problems are endless, keep on track with us to get a different sight. Any reviews or problems could reach us via customers emails. We may collect your problems or review to form a article so to share with each others.

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